I like simple (and cheap) solutions to problems, so I decided against an interface that used an R/C Tx. First, I tried a serial PIC from an American outfit that just didn't work, and the vendor refused to support it. I looked a little more deeply into the matter of support and, after contacting several vendors, I determined it just wasn't up to my standards unless I wanted to study R/C electronics.
The interface cable requires power from the Tx's battery that is better used for flying. Also many vendors recommend removing the Tx's crystal or RF (radio frequency) section to prevent damage to it. Actually the jury is still out on this issue with a mixture of opinions. Anyway I don't want to tamper with the unit's internals.
In both cases, considering the cost of a good transmitter and the price of repair service, I didn't think it was a good idea to use it for a purpose other than what it was intended.
So what was my alternative to the Tx interface cable? I could use a gaming joystick communicating through either the USB or gameport of the computer. There are a lot of joystick manufacturers, but the premier maker for aeronautical simulators, home built aircraft, and various industrial purposes is CH Products in California. This company has a couple decades history of making high quality precision joysticks. In fact, I have their first gaming product or the Mach I, a 2-axis 2-button stick, which still works perfectly after 25 plus years. Incidentally, the company also makes throttles and pedals that can be used in various combinations with their joy or flight sticks.
If you have never experienced a CH stick, you're missing out. You'll find the stick fits comfortably in your hand, its feel and movement are perfect, and the base is large and weighted exactly right with round rubber pads to prevent slipping around. No other maker comes even close to the marvelous quality of CH's.
CH now only makes USB joysticks, but they used to make analog or gameport sticks. I decided against USB due to the cost. A typical CH USB joystick usually costs a hundred bucks or better - a little rich for me. Even though CH no longer makes analog units, they still have an inventory. I recently bought the analog F-16 Fighterstick PC for $19.97. Go to their online store and look at Closeouts. This is a 3-axis unit (throttle, elevator, and ailerons) with trims for the stick. This is a wonderful unit with a great feel and precise control - a perfect compliment to FMS. Incidentally, I don't have any affiliation with CH; I just admire quality.
What's really great about CH is they support their products including every analog unit they have ever made. You can find out more here:
Under Technical Support, they have a Knowledge Base (for PC and MAC), download software (for USB, gameport, and MAC), FAQs, and an email form to ask questions. With a couple decades of experience, I doubt there is a problem they don't have an answer for. For example, some of you have had installation problems with other interfaces under Windows XP/2000. Not with CH; these analog (and USB) sticks will work problem free under both of these operating systems.
Those of you flush with money can buy the USB units, and they are great values worth every penny. One advantage is their buttons can be programmed to initiate a series of keystrokes. Some other consideration are easily resolving software issues, hooking up several to one computer is simple and the response between the joystick and FMS is rapid and seamless.
It is this last issue that's a problem for analog sticks. Nearly all gameports are integrated into a soundcard. Many of them are very slow and can't keep up with a fast CPU. You'll recognize this in FMS if your plane doesn't seem to respond correctly to your inputs, is difficult to control, is jittery, or its movements seem to freeze up from time-to-time.
To determine if your gameport is slow, download off the CH site JCWIN.exe. Run the program and center the blue ball with the trim wheels and read the numbers in the lower left corner. If they are over 300 (mine were 500+), you have a slow port. There are three solutions:
1. Buy a gamecard that is dedicated to joysticks. CH used to make one called the Gamecard 3 Automatic. Another is the Thrustmaster ACM Gamecard. With some hunting, you'll likely find one on Ebay. Be forewarned, you'll need an ISA slot on your motherboard. I happen to have the former card, but my computer doesn't have an ISA slot (darn).
2. Find a cheap sound card that has a fast gameport. Unfortunately, I haven't had any success in identifying units with this feature. I am still working on it.
3. Use a USB-to-DB15 connector. These are cheap and may work depending upon your joystick:
a. Radioshack makes one Catalog# 26-164 (I didn't test it).
b. WWW.CableGuyUSA.com has a very nice unit:
This unit has a 4-way switch to make it compatible with a variety of manufacturer's sticks. I used setting three, and it worked perfectly with mine. For a total investment of $30 plus shipping, I have a great interface!
Another important consideration with any manufacturer is compatibility. All of the CH analog products are compatible with each other (the same is true for USB, but you can't mix USB with analog). For example, I could use my old CH Mach I with a CH throttle. Only one gameport is needed on the computer, since the Mach I plugs into the throttle which then plugs into the computer.
Incidentally, you needn't worry about drivers for the analog (or USB) sticks. They all use Microsoft's. Also note for the analog sticks, you'll have to do an "add" under Gaming Options on the Control Panel to get the right configuration while USB will automatically be set up (unplug the USB cable, select the setting, and then plug it back in).
So now you have a 3-axis joystick. The question comes up what about the rudder? Except for nose or tail wheel steering, the rudder doesn't have much use on most R/C models. The exceptions are large-scale models that need the rudder to make coordinated turns and aerobatic models that require rudder inputs for some fancy maneuvers. If you can't live without the rudder, get the CH pedals.
I do have a couple tip regarding joysticks in general. Don't buy a stick where you twist the handle for the rudder. They feel and work terrible. Also make sure the unit has a large base with enough weight, so it doesn't shift around.
There are ways to get a rudder using two joysticks. CH makes a splitter ($2.95) where you can hook two joysticks to one gameport, since it will recognize up to 4 axes. For example, you could hook up two 2-axis joysticks, a 3 and 2, or a 3 and 3. Incidentally, the gamecards have two 15-pin ports, so you won't need a splitter.
Besides from CH, where can you buy an analog unit? With patience, you'll find one on Ebay. I suggest looking for a CH Flightstick Pro that often go for under $10. Here is a picture of a USB unit from Amazon:
Finally, I did all my testing using FMS Ver 2.0 Alpha 8.5.
Al
