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FMS Forum • View topic - Corsair TW-748

Corsair TW-748

Corsair TW-748

Postby FourPlay26 » Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:42 pm

Hi all

Hope that you can help

I have recently purchased the model above from e-bay and was just wondering if there is a FMS model with the same or similar features in FMS that I can use as a practice simulator before trying the real thing?

The details are as follows

4 Channel
Motor 370 Brushed
Control Distance 300M
Size 72cm long x 93cm wide x 20cm high
Material EPS
15min Flight time.

If there are any other details please let me know

Also does FMS have a flight timer where the engine cuts out at random or after a certain period of time?

I have also noticed that the rudder effect when using FMS does not seem to have much effect of the plane is this a fault with the software?

Can see a video and images at the following link don't know how to post images in this forum as yet

http://www.china-toy-factory.com/RCAirplane748.htm

Thanks in advance for any information given.

David
FourPlay26
 
Posts: 3
Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:24 pm
Location: Brisbane Queensland

Postby smcxx66 » Thu Feb 21, 2008 4:42 pm

You can adjust a model to fly anyway you want.

Turn off the FIX position in the view option menu.
This will allow the model to not stay FIXED to the center of the screen.

mmmm...I know in scale flight or actually aircraft flight
you want to use the rudder...but for R/C flight. it's not necessary.
or you don't use it as much...unless your want to get into scale
flight or 3D.

For beginers if you get around to actaully using the rudder..
(that why some R/C pilots have the dead left thumb)
throttle wide open and not using the rudder....
You only want to make small adjustments anyway.

Just remember ..it depends on the amount of diehedral.
it's not just going to yaw....it's also going to roll.lol

The gull wing for the real aircraft was design to compensate
for props clearance..mmm the model has a fair amount of
diehedral.

anyway..when you get to gettting to flying you're real R/C
model...find an open , open, open space.lol
it'll go faster than you think and all the trees and powerline is not
cool to have.

I might start with a trainer first thou..you changes of sucess will
increase. A trainer will glide or float more and won't NEED TO FLY AS FAST.

A scale model...will sometimes the wing just stops flying or tip
stall. If you have a model with the bare minimun of power..it'll be fun.lol

FMS 2.85 has a par. edit add on software.
The path is drive/program files/fms,...then you'll see the par. editor.

Which is really nice to have. but sometimes it's confusing becuase
a person is not familar with the editor. If you don't set all the perimeters
required for a model. it'll just drop into the abyss.lol

Another way to adjust it is to simply open the .par file using NOTEPAD.
It depends how the aurther of that model set the parimeters.

You can simply switch out the .par with another one and just rename it.
if you found a .par that you can comprehend.

You can also switch out the .wav file (sound) with another one.
Just name the file that you want to use to match what you want to replace.
Some of FMS sounds are actaully aircraft sounds.
switch a nitro sound with an electric sound...etc.

You can adjust the fuel level and use that as a timer

You can also use GIMP to edit the model's skin.


This is what's in your model folder

.par to execute the model and the perimeters.
Maq or X files...the objects or the 3D mesh of the model
texture....the model's color scheme.
.wav the model's sound
prv....the little preview picture you see of the model.
and maybe a text with instructions or credits.

Here's what I'm saying about adjusting the .par with notepad these example are for heli model.

Adjust the numbers on the left hand side.

smcxx66
 
Posts: 201
Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 7:55 pm

Postby FourPlay26 » Thu Feb 21, 2008 10:40 pm

Thanks for the reply

I will give it a go.

As a trainer I have purchased a little 2 channel job that has the wing above the fueslarge. I will be giving this one a go first.

With the simulator if I use the chase camera I have no problem controlling the aircraft. When I switch to a ground position the plane eventually becomes a dot and crashes. I am trying to do a circuit but cannot seem to control the plane.

What must I do or look for do do this better. Practice I know but there must be some hints from the more expriences users.

I am not finding it fustrating just a learning process is all.

David
FourPlay26
 
Posts: 3
Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:24 pm
Location: Brisbane Queensland

Postby smcxx66 » Fri Feb 22, 2008 7:21 pm

If you can master a 2 channel.. you'll be a better r/c pilot than me.
I'm assuming power for lift and rudder for banking.
And bare minimun power to keep it flying.

I started off with a 3 channel..it was a waste of my money.
I ended put crashing it becuase I was new to flight theory
and RC all together. but it was all i could afford at that time.

Try to get a 4 channel and a TX with dual rate.
A PC TX will save you more money money in the long run.
if you go with 6 channels..at least you can use it to fly a heli
later.

Forget about the chase mode

Use the auto zoom and adjust it. But not too much.
Once you get more comfortable..you want to trun that off
becuase you won't have auto zoom when flying for real.

I set mine at no zoom to 60 m
Full zoom beyound 80m
What this dose is ...when the camera starts zooming in,
it tells me it's time to start doing a trun around.

it's also a common problem in real R/C flying.
That's why it'll take time to adjust to any flying site.
You still need sometype of landmark to help you.

Depth persception is also a problem in real R/C flying.
I was landing on the other side of the fence all the time
when I first started.lol

Bascailly a .60 size model will look just like a .40 size
model dring flight, at first ...It depends how far or close I'm flying
it to me.

That's why we make funkie color scheme.
i put neon colors strips on the leading edge of my model so
I can see it during trun around.
some checker on the bottom of the wing

In the world scenery...notice the two trees.
It's there bascially to help you as a land mark or acts as a pylon.
You can go into the .scn file and adjust the locations of them.

when the model is coming to you..turn the stick in the direction
the wing is diping to level the model.

when you try to fly your trainer. If there's wind or a slight breeze.
Take off up wind, land down wind.

meaning...throw your model into the wind
smcxx66
 
Posts: 201
Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 7:55 pm

Postby FourPlay26 » Mon Feb 25, 2008 4:11 am

smcxx66

Thanks for the reply that is some really useful information and I have put it to good use.

The 2 Channel job is all power no rudder or elevator as there is 2 props when you turn one engine speeds up and the other slows.

Does your advise work with the panoramic backgrounds?

Thanks

David
FourPlay26
 
Posts: 3
Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:24 pm
Location: Brisbane Queensland

Postby smcxx66 » Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:26 am

My nieghbor's kid had one of those...that was insane.
I couldn't even fly that thing. I crashed it after making
a circle.lol

Trust me..you want to keep the model in front of you anyway.
You won't pivet as fast in real life. That's how most newbies
get into trouble..they fy behind the flight line and
start loosing oriantations...then freak out.lol


Yes it makes no different in panorama sceneries.
Just trun off the fog while in pano sceneries.

I converted a reflex scenery call Free style becuase
bascailly there's no objects in the surrounding area of the pilot.
That's what the person that uploaded said.


You can map in objects if you want.

if you have auto zoom on and just keep on flying out
all that's going to do is make the pixels of the pano bigger.
smcxx66
 
Posts: 201
Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 7:55 pm


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